This is an AllStar Simplex micro node. Node number 29696. (441.025 Portable) My full-time AllStar node is 29503.
The controller can be a Beagle Bone Black or a Raspberry Pi 2 Model B or a Raspberry Pi 3 Model B running Archlinux and Asterisk with app_rpt.
The radio is a Baofeng BF-888s.
These are approximate prices for the items I used. Keep in mind these do not include shipping and tax.
|Raspberry Pi 3 Model B (built in Wi-Fi)||$35.00|
|Raspberry Pi Plastic Case||$9.00|
|16 GB Micro SD||$12.00|
|Wi-Fi Eithernet Bridge (no longer needed for normal operation)||$20.00|
The settings in my simpleusb.conf file are as follow.
; SimpleUSB configuration
If you follow the instructions contained on this page, you do so at your own risk. There, I said it! 😉
Steps for Wiring the BF-888s:
Remove the antenna, volume and channel knobs.
Remove the slotted nuts that secure the antenna, volume and channel components. I use two very small flat head screw drivers to perform this task.
Remove the battery to reveal the two Torx screws near the bottom of the radio.
Remove the two Torx screws.
Carefully separate the metal chassis from the front cover. The speaker connecting wires are very short.
Make note of where the speaker wires connect to the board. (+ on Speaker to – on board & – on speaker to + on board)
Remove the solder connections from the board where the speaker wires connect.
Use small pliers to twist off the microphone from the board.
Use small diagonal cutters to remove the LED from the board.
I use 14 to 18 inches of standard USB cable to wire this. Before sacrificing any cables for this be sure to verify it will fit through the hole in the top of the radio where the lamp was.
Strip approximately 5 inches of insulator from the end of the USB cable you intend to use inside the radio.
Strip approximately 2 inches from the end of the USB cable you intend to use inside the DB25.
Strip approximately 1/8 of an inch off each wire end. You may want to adjust the length of each wire before doing this to accommodate a reasonable fit to each solder point.
Feed the USB cable through the lamp hole.
Place about 1/2 inch of heat shrink tube near where you stripped the insulator off near each end. This will help keep the cable in place when complete. You may want to have two pieces of heat shrink to increase the thickness.
Remove the screws used to secure the board to the chassis.
Remove the solder from the board where the antenna connector and the + 3.7 Volts are located.
Carefully drill and clean a small hole to accommodate the COS wire passage through the board. I found the location indicated in the photos below.
Feed the COS wire through the hole.
Solder the COS wire to the pin indicated. Be careful not to use too much heat!
Secure the board to the chassis using the screws and solder the antenna connector and the 3.7 volt connection point.
Place the USB cable in a position so that it will lay properly to allow passage through the LED hole without causing stress on the cable.
Solder the remaining connections as indicated in the photos.
Reattach the speaker wires onto the board.
Place the board back into the case as well as the slotted nuts, knobs and antenna.
Secure the Torx screws.
Steps for Wiring the DB-25 Connector: (INCOMPLETE)
Trim the 68K an 10K resistors to about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
Solder the short ends to pins 21 and 22.
This is where I placed the two resistors for pins 21 and 22. I also placed a very short length of heat shrink tube over each of the wire to resistor connections after taking this photo.
21 = 68k
Once all of the connections to the radio and DB25 are complete, I test the functionality then assemble the radio and DB25. I place a good deal of hot glue inside the DB25 to prevent any breaks from the connections to the DB25 pins.
This image indicates I am using a Beagle Bone Black. I currently use the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B.
It also indicates I am using a blue Vonets VAP11G Wireless Adapter WiFi Bridge. I no longer use this as the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B has built in Wi-Fi.
In the next phase I placed everything into a Pelican 1200. The only reason I used this case is because I already had it. I have built many nodes into an opaque plastic case typically used for fishing lures or crafts. The cost is much lower, about $6.00, than a Pelican case and serves quite well.
Doug Crompton – WA3DSP
Ramon Gonzalez – KP4TR Thank you for all your help!
Omar Reyes – K9MAR
Special Thanks to you! I could not have completed the project without you!
DMK Engineering – Makers of the URIx